Which one to feed your bird? Which is more nutritious? Can they be mixed together? If then on what ratio. These questions lingered long on my mind as I am in the continous quest to find the best seedmix diet for my birds and here is what I uncovered: Millets contain at least 11% protein in weight, a vital ingredient in feather prodution as feathers are mostly protein in the form of keratin. Other nutrients include various types of vitamin B, folic acid and carbohydrates. Having no gluten, millets are known to have no allergic effect. Millet, aside from the canary seed should comprise at least 30% of your seedmix. You go to a super birdstore and suddenly found a variety of colors, with a price difference t almost 50%, white, also known as "pearl" being teh cheapest.
The fact is, laboratory nutrient tests on the millet is the same to all its colored varieties, thus, it oil boils down to choice. Your birds' choice.
I have honestly given them all those four types in one mix and one color stands out: The black millet. Stands out in the sense that it is the only think left in the plate, as much as possible, cockatiels or finches, they dont want to do anything with it unless starvation moves in. Given its relatively high price, my birds are giving me a great favor. The others are consumed fairly but not until the white "pearls" have pretty much ran out.
So there you have it: Winner of the royal rumble. Nutritious, cheap, readily available and very much popular to your cockatiels, the white aka "pearl" millet.
Friday, August 13, 2010
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Visually Sexing Your Cockatiel
Visually Sexing Your Cockatiel is possible to most mutations except two, the Whiteface Lutino aka "Albino" and the Pied. These two radically eliminates the color markings to identify the female (albino) or mixes up all the color pattern (Pied) to provide proper identification.
Visually sexing your cockatiel is reliable after the completion of the first molt, which takes about 6-8 months of age. Before the first molt all of them look like girls.
The cock will have a bright yellow face mask with prominent cheek patches (except the whiteface). The hen will have a yellow face but of little surface area with the body color(usually gray) interloping parts of it including the cheek patch making it look duller than the male.
Barrings remain underneath the tail of the hen while they are absent after the first molt of the male.
Like the barrings, female cockatiels retain their spots under their wing where they are shed off by the male during maturity.
These spots and barrings are present even in the lutino. A bright light source will be necessary to visually identify the yellow/white barrings.
The Pearl's scalloped design while slowly shed off by the male during its first year while it will remain prominent in the female.
Combine these visual tips with your cockatiel's behavior and you have a relatively high chance of identifying the sexual orientation of your cockatiel.
Visually sexing your cockatiel is reliable after the completion of the first molt, which takes about 6-8 months of age. Before the first molt all of them look like girls.
The cock will have a bright yellow face mask with prominent cheek patches (except the whiteface). The hen will have a yellow face but of little surface area with the body color(usually gray) interloping parts of it including the cheek patch making it look duller than the male.
Barrings remain underneath the tail of the hen while they are absent after the first molt of the male.
Like the barrings, female cockatiels retain their spots under their wing where they are shed off by the male during maturity.
These spots and barrings are present even in the lutino. A bright light source will be necessary to visually identify the yellow/white barrings.
The Pearl's scalloped design while slowly shed off by the male during its first year while it will remain prominent in the female.
Combine these visual tips with your cockatiel's behavior and you have a relatively high chance of identifying the sexual orientation of your cockatiel.
Egg Binding, A Breeder's Approach
Egg Binding is a serious problem attributed to the inability of a bird to lay or expel its egg/s from its body.
It is observed that smaller birds including cockatiels are more susceptible to egg binding.
The usual cause of such inability is an abnormality in the egg's structure. Either soft shelled or abnormally larger in size, the stuck egg may kill your bird within seconds.
Lovely, my first cockatiel to succumb to egg binding, was all playful and active minutes before egg binding struck and killed her immediately.
The following are major causes of egg binding:
Lack of Calcium. Eggs are made of calcium. Being depleted of this element will cause hens to produce soft shelled eggs that are hard to expel. This happens when there is little or no calcium source within their diet, and even if there is a source, too many clutches laid within a small period of time will be too much for any small bird.
Overbreeding. More than two clutches a year places your bird at a high risk to encounter egg binding. Calcium and nutrient intake will not be able to catch up with the fast depletion of these nutrients due to excessive egg production.
Lack of Essential vitamins. Producing and laying eggs are stressful activities and Calcium is but a small portion of what a hen needs. Lack of other vitamins will lead to abnormally shaped egg that the cloaca is not designed to handle.
Age. A young bird, in the case of a cockatiel, below a year old, have a higher risk of egg binding due to the underdeveloped reproductive systems.
Prevention.
Apparently, given the list of causes, a responsible breeder can take steps to minimize it. Cuttlebone is the best and most trusted calcium source as it is natural, it also supplies necessary amount of iodine and most importantly, your cockatiels are more than willing to take them. They should always be available even when not breeding. Two or three times a week, soluble vitamins can be added to their water source. It is said that adding drops of vegetable oil to their seed dish can lessen the risk dramatically. For the overzealous breeders, remove the nest box after the second clutch to discourage further breeding until the next season.
Cure
Unfortunately, your veterinary is the only possible cure for your bird. Operation may be necessary and you don't have the tools for it nor the knowledge. The bird may be injected with calcium for cloacal contraction helping to expel the egg. With all these possible solutions the risk of losing your bird is still very high.
Always remember that breeding and egg laying is always an emergency situation. Do your best to stop egg binding before it happens.
It is observed that smaller birds including cockatiels are more susceptible to egg binding.
The usual cause of such inability is an abnormality in the egg's structure. Either soft shelled or abnormally larger in size, the stuck egg may kill your bird within seconds.
Lovely, my first cockatiel to succumb to egg binding, was all playful and active minutes before egg binding struck and killed her immediately.
The following are major causes of egg binding:
Lack of Calcium. Eggs are made of calcium. Being depleted of this element will cause hens to produce soft shelled eggs that are hard to expel. This happens when there is little or no calcium source within their diet, and even if there is a source, too many clutches laid within a small period of time will be too much for any small bird.
Overbreeding. More than two clutches a year places your bird at a high risk to encounter egg binding. Calcium and nutrient intake will not be able to catch up with the fast depletion of these nutrients due to excessive egg production.
Lack of Essential vitamins. Producing and laying eggs are stressful activities and Calcium is but a small portion of what a hen needs. Lack of other vitamins will lead to abnormally shaped egg that the cloaca is not designed to handle.
Age. A young bird, in the case of a cockatiel, below a year old, have a higher risk of egg binding due to the underdeveloped reproductive systems.
Prevention.
Apparently, given the list of causes, a responsible breeder can take steps to minimize it. Cuttlebone is the best and most trusted calcium source as it is natural, it also supplies necessary amount of iodine and most importantly, your cockatiels are more than willing to take them. They should always be available even when not breeding. Two or three times a week, soluble vitamins can be added to their water source. It is said that adding drops of vegetable oil to their seed dish can lessen the risk dramatically. For the overzealous breeders, remove the nest box after the second clutch to discourage further breeding until the next season.
Cure
Unfortunately, your veterinary is the only possible cure for your bird. Operation may be necessary and you don't have the tools for it nor the knowledge. The bird may be injected with calcium for cloacal contraction helping to expel the egg. With all these possible solutions the risk of losing your bird is still very high.
Always remember that breeding and egg laying is always an emergency situation. Do your best to stop egg binding before it happens.
Monday, August 9, 2010
Mutations: The "Albino"
The Albino Cockatiel is a misnomer, it doesn't exist. Rather, it is a combination of two mutations, the lutino and the whiteface. The combination resulted in a bird with no dark/gray plumage and no cheekpatch, creating the "albino" cockatiel. Due to this mix of two mutations, the albino cockatiel is priced above the normal or average mutation. The whiteface removes all the white in the bird, the lutino mutation removes all of the gray/black coloration, you end up with a white bird. The genetically correct name for it would be a "Whiteface lutino". The Whiteface Lutino or "Albino" cannot be visually sexed.
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Mutations: The Silver Cockatiel
The Silver Cockatiel is a normal gray in dilute form. This mutation has distinct red eyes, a pink beak and pink feet. Male Silvers commonly have a yellow face and orange cheek patches after its first molt. Female Silvers will retain most of the patterns and features of a gray except that it is diluted presenting a silver color.
That is for the general description, a more in depth explanation needs more of your attention.
There are two known types of 'silver' cockatiels. This type of mutation can be acquired from one parent or both, making the single and double factor types. There is also a dominant silver and a recessive silver. The recessive mutation displays a light silvery color, they have red eyes like that of lutinos.
The double factors have lighter plumage than the single factor.
A dark gray cap on a silver bird shows that it is a dominant silver, the only prominent visual difference to a recessive silver aside from the fact that all dominant silvers have dark eyes.
Sexing the silver cockatiel is same as the normal, look for markings under the wing and tail, spots and barring represents a female on mature species.
That is for the general description, a more in depth explanation needs more of your attention.
There are two known types of 'silver' cockatiels. This type of mutation can be acquired from one parent or both, making the single and double factor types. There is also a dominant silver and a recessive silver. The recessive mutation displays a light silvery color, they have red eyes like that of lutinos.
The double factors have lighter plumage than the single factor.
A dark gray cap on a silver bird shows that it is a dominant silver, the only prominent visual difference to a recessive silver aside from the fact that all dominant silvers have dark eyes.
Sexing the silver cockatiel is same as the normal, look for markings under the wing and tail, spots and barring represents a female on mature species.
Thursday, August 5, 2010
SunFATTER seeds
You place a mixture of seeds in a bowl, millet, canary seeds, rape, oat groat and sunflower seeds. The next minute the sunflower seeds are chowed down like there is no tomorrow while the others (except the oat groat)are ignored until the next hungry season. The sunflower seeds are technically labeled as the "Junk Food" of the bird world, the preference of most birds to this seed has triggered an obesity malady in the species. To set the record straight it is unfair to label it as junk as it is known that oil(which is mostly what it is made of) is a major necessity in a bird's diet(even in yours). The key element is "moderation". The feathers need oil for their health, utilization and water proofing. Too much of it though will fatten your bird which will trigger a lot of other internal problems in due time. So the bottom line is, use sunflower seeds as a treat. Do not mix it up in your daily servings, give it two or three times a weeks while regulating the obesity of your pets. Sunflower seeds have large amounts of vitamin E that is essential in breeding and nurturing birds, so you may double your serving during these periods.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Myths and Legends of Chick Mortality
There have been undocumented reports, agreements between experienced breeders that were never put to the test, never written in paper and to most of these breeders they really wished they never will be.
Cockatiels are relatively easy to breed. When a good pair starts breeding, one might have to intervene or they may never stop laying to the detriment of the hen's health. Per clutch you may find about four to seven or eight eggs but some might get discarded or destroyed before hatching or abandoned by the parents leaving only one or two to survive. Breeders believe this is a psychological instinctive trigger built in to the parent's system to provide better surviving results for the remaining chicks.
Now what are the triggers.
Food and Water
This is the most important trigger. Never let the dishes empty, there should always be an EXCESS of food. Like summer season in the wild, food is abundunt as seeds and fruits produces more than enough to support a big family. The parents upon seeing this will continue to provide for the chicks without the need to manage each meal. Once the parents notice that the food is scarce, (though you know you will provide it if need be) they will abandon the weakest, usually the smallest of the chicks and increase the survival rate of its siblings by reserving the meager available food for them.
Temperature and Humidity
Imitating the summer season would be the best approach, thus an indoor cage where temperature can be managed is a more appropriate location. Dampness of the nest box is a major factor for complete abandonment of the clutch. Provide proper cover from drafts, sudden temperature changes and rain if the cage is outdoors.
Pests/Predators
Make sure no pests like mites, ants and the like will enter the nestbox, precautionary steps should be taken before breeding, taking into account the sanitary steps for your nest site. If infested during the nesting process there is no other choice but to remove the parents temporarily, pull out the eggs/chicks and sanitize the site before returning them together.
Predators are common to an outdoor setup, make sure your perimeter is secure from cats, snakes etc. The railings of your cage can be more secure by doubling it up with chicken wires. Indoor setup is not devoid of predators. Inside, YOU are the predator. Do not startle the nesting family or it may destroy the clutch or abandon them completely. Cockatiels though are known to be one of the most tolerant pet birds during its breeding season just make sure you make slow, expected movements. When checking the nestbox it is customary to "knock" three times to let them know you are coming, this simple respectful act can save you lots of cheeky lives.
Cockatiels are relatively easy to breed. When a good pair starts breeding, one might have to intervene or they may never stop laying to the detriment of the hen's health. Per clutch you may find about four to seven or eight eggs but some might get discarded or destroyed before hatching or abandoned by the parents leaving only one or two to survive. Breeders believe this is a psychological instinctive trigger built in to the parent's system to provide better surviving results for the remaining chicks.
Now what are the triggers.
Food and Water
This is the most important trigger. Never let the dishes empty, there should always be an EXCESS of food. Like summer season in the wild, food is abundunt as seeds and fruits produces more than enough to support a big family. The parents upon seeing this will continue to provide for the chicks without the need to manage each meal. Once the parents notice that the food is scarce, (though you know you will provide it if need be) they will abandon the weakest, usually the smallest of the chicks and increase the survival rate of its siblings by reserving the meager available food for them.
Temperature and Humidity
Imitating the summer season would be the best approach, thus an indoor cage where temperature can be managed is a more appropriate location. Dampness of the nest box is a major factor for complete abandonment of the clutch. Provide proper cover from drafts, sudden temperature changes and rain if the cage is outdoors.
Pests/Predators
Make sure no pests like mites, ants and the like will enter the nestbox, precautionary steps should be taken before breeding, taking into account the sanitary steps for your nest site. If infested during the nesting process there is no other choice but to remove the parents temporarily, pull out the eggs/chicks and sanitize the site before returning them together.
Predators are common to an outdoor setup, make sure your perimeter is secure from cats, snakes etc. The railings of your cage can be more secure by doubling it up with chicken wires. Indoor setup is not devoid of predators. Inside, YOU are the predator. Do not startle the nesting family or it may destroy the clutch or abandon them completely. Cockatiels though are known to be one of the most tolerant pet birds during its breeding season just make sure you make slow, expected movements. When checking the nestbox it is customary to "knock" three times to let them know you are coming, this simple respectful act can save you lots of cheeky lives.
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