What to feed your Cockatiel: Seed Mix and Sprouting

There are several seeds in the bird market, my quest for the perfect mix for the cockatiel ended up in a simple word: "variety". The ratio and amount of which depends on the current need of your birds.

Millet: Eleven percent(11%) protein. Millets abound in B vitamins, folic acid, potassium, zinc, iron, magnesium and calcium.

Sun flower seeds: Contains essential fatty acids,great source of amino acids, dietary fiber, Vitamin E which is essential in breeding, folate, Thiamine and minerals: magnesium, copper, phosphorus, manganese, potassium, selenium, iron, calcium and zinc. For more info refer to SunFatter Seeds

Canary seeds: There is no definitive statistics on the nutrient content of the canary seed though isolated tests affirm that it may have one of the highest protein concentrations of the seed world.

Hulled Oats / Oat Groats: Hulled oats are semi-processed oats, where the shell has already been removed, oat groats, being raw and unprocessed, is said to have the most nutrients locked-in. Fortunately, the cockatiels beak can easily dehusk these seeds.

Hemp Seed: The multi-vitamins of the bird world. Said to contain the most complete of all the seeds mentioned, used to trigger breeding and well-being in the form of singing.

Sprouting
is an excellent fresh food that you can grow utilizing the seeds mentioned above. Sprouting presents an entirely new set of beneficial enzymes that is not unlocked in seed form. There are many complicated or tedious steps to sprout but it is quite easy, all that you need is a damp environment for the seed provided with proper organic antiseptic to prevent spoilage.

Step 1: Choose your seed mix.

Step 2: Wash and Rinse with water and organic vinegar(at least 20% vinegar,
apple cider can be a good choice), let the seed soak in it for at least 30
minutes.

Step 4: Place the seeds above a damp environment, preferably a foam with the same
mixture of water and vinegar. Place in a lighted place with no direct
sunlight.

Step 5: Make sure you check the moisture on the foam daily, depending on your local temperature. Expect to harvest and serve in no more than 4-5 days.

Cockatiel Breeding Step by Step: The Pair

Choosing your pair for breeding might be a daunting task. There are several purposes for this , one is to pair to obtain a certain type or breed, called selective breeding. You can obtain an "Albino" cockatiel (Technically a double mutation) by pairing a whiteface and a lutino. Many breeders believe (and with some scientific back-up) that letting the cockatiels "choose" their own mate produces stronger bonds and stronger chicks in effect, this is called natural pairing. These options are within your grasp but the basic requirements stay the same.

Age. Cockatiels are capable of breeding at 5-6 months of age but breeders are strongly against it. The parents are too young and most commonly irresponsible parents. They have little patience and readily abandon the clutch. Some suggests to breed Them at 18 months of age and there is no disputing that, but experience tells me that at just about 14 months of age, cockatiels are ready and capable parents. If you have all the time in the world, there is no reason not to stick to the 18 month rule.

Health Condition. breeding is a stressful, long term activity, you must prepare the pair for this. "Peak form" is the key. Provide eggfood, calcium in the form of eggshell and cuttle-bone, greens and the daily seed supply. Build up their health at least two months before breeding time. Cockatiels in captivity doesn't have a breeding season, you provide the triggers and they will respond.


Sexing your Male and Female: read this link Sexing your cockatiel

Cockatiel Breeding Step by Step (equipment)

A. The Breeding Cage.

The cockatiel is an eager breeder and is capable of breeding even in standard twin cages (17in. x 30in.). Now that is NOT recommended. Exercise and space for mobility is very important since a new batch is coming forth and they need space to fly about and test their wings. Bigger is better but a flight cage of 2ft. x 3ft. x 4ft. would be ideal. With this size, you can place the nest box higher giving the pair a safer ambiance, this may save you a lot of chicks that may fall victim to night frights.

B. The Nest Box.

The standard nest box is 1ft. x 1ft. x 1ft made of wood(preferably light and durable like "Palo Chino", used on crate boxes). The hole should have a diameter of 2.5-3 inches. The nestbox floor can be lined with nesting material usually hay, shaved wood or shredded paper to contain heat on the eggs and avoid rolling. The nest box size is large enough to accommodate both parents as they usually tend to the young simultaneously. It is also capable of holding 4-5 chicks. Once set-up it is best to leave the nest untouched unless emergencies(like mite infestation, chick death) call for major attention, thus it is a must to have a side door to peek on a daily basis.

c. Perches.

Provide enough perches near the nestbox hole as wandering chicks will jump out and need some branches to hold on to. Extra precaution must be made as common injuries occur on direct fall the first time they jump out of the hole, also provide some cushioning on the floor like hay directly beneath the nest box.